Mcleodganj, Dharamshala: Beyond the usual

Known as ‘Little Lhasa’, Mcleodganj is the seat of the Tibetan government-in-exile and home to His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama. A trip here offers a unique mix of monasteries and meditation on one side, bustling markets and treks on the other.

The Dalai Lama Complex

It’s a place where faith finds many, many, many expressions.

The beautiful Tsuglagkhang Temple offers soulful peace, so spend some time in silence to feel the difference it brings.

On the opposite side is the Namgyal Monastery, the residence of Buddhist monks-in-training, which is also the largest Tibetan temple outside Tibet. It is renowned for its intricate thangka paintings, golden statues, and library of rare manuscripts. Just moving hands on the prayer wheels here is such a surreal experience!

Admire the decorated murals of the Buddha and other frescoes depicting the general lives of the Lama at the Kalachakra Temple. The Thangka paintings here are massive! Get a quick bite at the Namgyal Café and look out for the famous canopy funded by celebrity Richard Gere!

Next, visit the Tibet Museum, situated across the Tsuglagkhang Complex, which is a compact but insightful museum that narrates the story of Tibet’s struggle and diaspora through photographs, videos, and artifacts. There used to a a special screening of a movie at additional rates, but we will need to confirm.

Around the Dalai Lama Temple runs a sacred kora path, a prayer circuit lined with prayer wheels, stones inscribed with mantras, and fluttering flags. Walk here early morning or at sunset—it’s meditative, with monks and locals chanting softly as they circle.

Norbulingka

Norbulingka is a unique institute founded in the year 1988. dedicated to preserving Tibetan Art and culture. The entire place is alluring and inspiring, with beautiful landscapes, streams flowing by the open gardens, and full of Tibetan art.

Norbulingka is located in Sidhpur, a suburb of Dharamsala, about 30 minutes from McLeod Ganj. Norbulingka is also the summer palace of the Dalai Lama back in Tibet, and this place has been recreated with the same ideology by the Tibetan community!

Here you can watch the artists who create their unique art, including the Thangka Paintings and don’t miss the doll museum. Rows of handcrafted dolls depict every aspect of traditional Tibetan life, from festivals to farming, just like a miniature world frozen in time.

St. John Church (700 mtrs)

It is here that the second Lord Elgin, Viceroy of India (1863), is laid to rest. A small neo-Gothic church surrounded by deodar forests, known for its Belgian stained-glass windows and peaceful vibe.

Kunal Pathri (11 km towards Dharamshala)

Kunal Pathri is a small scenic town situated near tea gardens and sloppy villages. Popular for Kapaleshwari Temple (where the skull of Sati fell), dedicated to Goddess Durga. But what’s really unique about the Kunal Pathri temple is a wet stone inside the temple, which stays wet, and whenever it dries, it rains in the region!

Bhagsunag Fall and Sacred Pool (2 km)

Visit the natural spring pool at Bhagsunag Temple during early morning (before 6 AM) to witness local Hindu devotional practices away from the tourist crowds.

Dharamkot (5.4 km)

From Bhagsu, walking up to Dharamkot offers picturesque views of the snow-clad Dhauladhar ranges and Kangra Valley below. Dharamkot is also an ideal place to stay.

The place is quite popular for its hippie culture and bakeries, and popular for meditation centres, among which the ‘Tushita Meditation Centre’ is the centre for the study and practice of Buddhism in the Tibetan Mahayana tradition. There’s also the Tibetan Children’s Village (refuge of Tibetan children in exile) and a sacred Dall lake next to a Shiva Temple.

Khanyara (15.4 km)

Visit this picturesque town that has two significant temples – Aghanjar Mahadev Temple and Indru Nag Temple. The place is also known for its Slate Quarries.

The Temple of Aghanjar Mahadev is located along a river stream and has scenic surroundings amidst dense forests.

Dharamshala Cricket Ground (11.8 km via Khanyara Rd and NH503)

Also known as The HPCA Cricket Stadium, this is one of the most beautiful Cricket grounds in the world! Set against the backdrop of the snow-clad Dauladhar Mountain Ranges, this Cricket Ground is truly stunning!

Explore more nearby

Mcleodganj offers you plenty of experiences for meaningful engagement.

• You can volunteer and contribute at institutions like LHA Charitable Trust and teach English to Tibetan refugees. This requires a minimum two-week commitment.
• Norbulingka Institute Apprentice Program: While everyone visits this Tibetan arts centre, only a few are aware of their one-week apprentice programs in thangka painting, wood carving, or textile arts.
• Visit the small paper workshop in Dari village, where ancient techniques produce handmade paper from local materials (open Wednesday and Saturday only)
• Join the Waste Warriors organisation for weekly mountain trail clean-ups every Saturday morning.
• Take short-term language classes at the Tibet World Cultural Centre, where your fees directly support Tibetan refugee education.
• Attend a woodcarving session at the CBU Wood Carving Class located at the end of Jogiwara Road.
• Attend Ali’s Crystal House & Handicraft (located at Bhagsu) to create your own silver jewellery:

Seasonal Celebrations & Festivals

• Losar (Tibetan New Year): February-March
  Losar offers authentic cultural experiences with home visits, special foods, and rituals rarely seen by outsiders.
• Buddha Purnima Illuminations: During May’s full moon, thousands of butter lamps transform monasteries into magical spaces, with all-night chanting sessions open to respectful visitors.
• Shoton (Yogurt Festival): A lesser-known August celebration features massive thangka unveilings and traditional Tibetan opera performances.

Stay options

Monastery Stays: Several monasteries accept guests with advance arrangements, offering simple rooms and the chance to live within monastic rhythms.

Shepherd Huts: In recent times, especially during summer months (May-September), the traditional Gaddi shepherd stone huts above Naddi village can also be arranged for overnight stays through local guides.

Forest Retreats: Small meditation cabins in the cedar forests between Dharamkot and Upper Bhagsu offer electricity-free experiences with advance booking.

Homestays with Purpose: Choose family homestays in villages like Naddi and Dharamkot, where income directly supports local children’s education.

Places to eat in & around Dharamshala & Mcleodganj

Dharamshala is quite peaceful as compared to Mcleodganj, and most people opt to stay at Mcleodganj. Personally, I prefer the laid-back charm of Dharamshala. Explore the small but lively Tibetan Market, stroll down the inner lanes, eat hot momos & soup, and unwind for the coming days to explore more around.

Insider Tip: Avoid the big fat momos as they are not that tasty. Go for the usual ones!

Carpe Diem offers authentic Mexican and Thai cuisine. For dinner, visit McLio Restaurant, whose chef makes great food from all over the country. The place has live music and has also been visited by James Bond-Pierce Brosnan.

Visit Chocolate Log, run by a Kashmiri Couple, the place serves delicious desserts along with yummy cakes and pastries. They have a beautiful terrace, so enjoy the views. Try the Chocolate puddings served at Ogo’s Italian Café, located on Jogiwara Road. And do buy some bakery products from Woesar Bakery, located nearby. They are popular for their brownies, carrot cake, and homemade cappuccinos! Also, don’t forget to visit Black Tent Cafe, known for its musical evenings!

Lung Ta Japanese Restaurant is run by a Japanese monk in a secluded location near Dharamkot, serving authentic Japanese vegetarian cuisine (reservation required). Illiterati Books & Coffee is a popular bookstore café, hidden on a hillside with panoramic views and literary events with visiting authors. Nyingma Kitchen is a monastery canteen typically only for monks, but welcomes respectful visitors during specific hours (7-9 AM and 6-7 PM).

Jimmy’s Italian Kitchen has a cozy atmosphere with movie posters and serves up decently cheap Italian meal options. I love their Banoffee Pie and Chocolate Mousse! Snowlion Restaurant offers good Tibetan lunch options including Tingmo (made of refined flour rolled like a ball and steamed), Bakleb (Tibetan-style samosas) and Thukpas (a meal of soup and noodles). Then there’s Taste of India, a casual 2 story restaurant that offers good tandoori items along with the usual Punjabi cuisine. Another place I’ll recommend is Tibetan Kitchen, which serves huge portions at reasonable prices. They also have options for Italian, Israeli, Thai, and Chinese cuisine.

For sweet tooths like me, please step in at the English-style bakery at Nowrojee junction (it is also the oldest departmental store in town) and try the yummy pastries, cookies, lemon tarts, Black Forest cakes, chocolate mousse, etc. (all at really cheap rates) Wash it down with a cappuccino and yes don’t forget to pack up some homemade cookies that are deliciously mouthwatering! You can buy buttery Belgian waffles here.

For wood-fired pizza, go to Out of the Blue Pizzeria (you would need to take an auto to reach this place, as it is located 10 minutes away on Tipa Road and is surrounded by a dense forest!). There is another little place called ‘Moonpeak’ that is really small with 4-5 tables, but serves a delicious Himachali Thali and is located on the temple road.

Shopping guide

Pick up Prayer Wheels, Tibetan Rugs, Wooden Masks, Paper Necklaces, Tibetan Jewellery, Colourful Sling Bags, and Old and antique items….all available at Mcleodganj Market and don’t forget to bargain even though the prices are quite reasonable!

Offbeat Dharamshala

Temple Complex at Masrur (41.3 km via MDR44)

This is a mystical place with 15 richly carved monolithic rock temples sculpted in the splendid style of the Kailash temple at Ellora, and dates back to the 8th-9th century. The place is located just 15 km south of Kangra, and surprisingly, not many are aware of this place. There is also a strategically made Kund (water tank) that mirrors the amazing temple complex.

These temples are sculpted on a living stone and are truly a rare sight. The only two other comparable (but less impressive) examples of such type of rock-cut temples in the northern part of India are The only two other comparable (but less impressive) examples of such type of rock-cut temples in the northern part of India are Dharmanath temple near Dhamnar in Rajasthan and Thal temple in Uttar Pradesh and the Ellora Temples of Maharastra.

As there are no inscriptions, historians know very little about these temples, but the design and planning of the temples represent an early (possibly the earliest) example of Nagara-style architecture. Art historians believe that the temple was originally dedicated to Mahadeva (Lord Shiva) and was afterwards reshaped into a shrine dedicated to Lord Ram, Sita, and Lakshman, and idols are proving this to be true. Click Here for more details.

Trilokpur (41 km)

Trilokpur is located en route on the Mandi-Pathankot road and is approximately 41 km before Dharamshala. Here, the Trilokinath Temple is a natural cave temple with stalactites and stalagmites, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Look for some amazing rock formations in the river that flows by! The temple is located near a ridge and you may few ruins of a palace that once belonged to Lehna Singh Majitha, the Governor of Kangra Hills during Sikh rule.

Tatwani & Machhrial (25 km)

Both of these spots are located approximately 25 km from Dharamshala and have hot sulphur springs besides a Shiva Temple. There’s a beautiful river that flows nearby, making it an ideal destination for a day out.

Explore lesser-known trails:

While a trek to Triund (approx. 10 km – 5-6 hours) is one of the most popular treks, there are a few more trails that must be explored:

1. Illaqua Trails: Ask local guides about the network of unmarked shepherd paths that weave through oak and rhododendron forests, connecting tiny hamlets rarely visited by tourists.
2. Kareri Lake Trek: A pristine alpine lake at 2,934 meters surrounded by deodar forests, requiring a moderate 2-day commitment that rewards with absolute solitude. The Kareri lake is situated at a height of 3250 m and is just 13 km from the rest house here. Trek Details
3. Lahesh Cave: Continue beyond Triund to reach this natural shelter used by shepherds, offering a truly off-grid experience with stunning views of the Dhauladhar range.

Palampur & Surrounding Attractions (33.8 km) 

Palampur is a lovely place famous for its Tea Gardens and is located 35 km (1.5 hours ‘ drive) from Dharamshala. I will probably write a separate blog soon.

Take a walk along the Tea gardens and sip some tea. Visit the Shobha Singh Art Gallery and the Anthropological Museum. Else, skip these and visit ‘Andretta’, an artisan’s village just 13 km from Palampur.  It is known for its pottery among various other art forms, and lets you create your own masterpieces!

Bir-Billing (63.4 km)

Bir has gained a global name as India’s best hang gliding destination. Bir is 70 km from Dharamshala and 35 km from Palampur.

Billing is another 14 km from Bir and makes for a great trekking and camping experience. Bir is also well known for its Buddhist monasteries and Tibetan settlements, not forgetting the Tibetan culture and handicrafts. Read more about Bir Billing at Travel Tips: Getting around Bir.

Baijnath Temple (50 km)

The temple is located 13 km from Billing and has a beautiful Ancient Shiva Temple. The place is close to the temple town of Bageshwar, so you may also read Travel Guide to Bageshwar.

Location & Distance Guide

Beyond Peak Season (April-June), I’ll suggest visiting between September and November. By this time, there are significantly fewer tourists, and you can get clearer Himalayan views. Winter time (December-February) is ideal for those seeking solitude and the place transforms into a mystical landscape.

By Road: New Delhi to Dharamshala: 490 Kms approx. It is a 10 to 12 hour drive with stops.

Best Route: Ambala, Ropar, Nangal, Mehatpur, Amb, Dehra, Kangra, Dsala, Dharamshala

In case you want to visit the Masrur temples: Take this route: Delhi – Ambala – Ludhiana, Phagwara – Hoshiarpur – Gagret – Kangra – Dharamshala. This route will be longer by around 50 – 60 Km, but you can visit Chintpurni Mata, Jawala Ji, and Chamunda Devi temples en route and then reach Dharamshala. What I’ll suggest is to take this route first and then return from the other one.

By Railways: In case you don’t wish to drive, then book an overnight train to Pathankot and then take a taxi for further travel via Nurpur. (Nurpur: is a small town named after ‘Nurjehan’, the consort of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir. You can visit the ancient fort nearby and also pick up some exquisitely made Pashmina shawls, Kangra Woollen stuff, and other textiles that are easily available in the many shops located right on the main road.)

By Airways: Dharamsala has an airport that has flights to/from New Delhi. Another option is Gaggal Airport (Kingfisher operates regular flights here).

McLeodganj is a place close to my heart. May your journey go beyond the usual and touch the extraordinary heart of this mountain sanctuary.