Pune: Mastani Lake and temples of Saswad Region

The Mastani Lake and temples of Saswad represent a perfect blend of natural beauty, romantic history, and spiritual heritage. Unlike the crowded tourist attractions of central Pune, these sites offer authentic experiences in peaceful settings. For travelers seeking to venture beyond the obvious and connect with Maharashtra’s rich cultural tapestry, this day trip provides a rewarding journey through landscapes shaped by nature and human history.

Whether you’re capturing the golden light on ancient temple stones, listening to local legends of Bajirao and Mastani, or simply enjoying the tranquility of rural Maharashtra, this region offers a multi-faceted experience that deserves a prominent place in any Pune travel itinerary.

Mastani Lake

Mastani Lake began as a seasonal water body that gained special significance as the secret retreat of Peshwa Bajirao I and his beloved Mastani. The couple frequently visited this tranquil spot during their horseback rides through the countryside, gradually transforming it into their private hideaway from the political complexities and social scrutiny they faced at court.

Today, this picturesque setting makes it an ideal destination for picnics, photography, and outdoor activities, with the historical romance adding an extra layer of charm to the experience.

The walls were later constructed on orders from Peshwa Bajirao who wanted to gift the lake to his lover and second wife Mastani. In a poignant twist of fate, the construction was only completed after Bajirao died in 1740. Adding to the tragic romance, Mastani herself passed away in the same year, unable to fully enjoy this token of their controversial love. Not many know, but the final resting place of Mastani is at ‘Pabal’, a small village, 70 km from Mastani Lake and 53 Km from Pune. You can visit Pabal if you are on your way to Nighoj’s Potholes.

Mastani was the daughter of Maharaja Chhatrasal of Bundelkhand, a Hindu married to a Persian Muslim Ruhaani Bai. She was known for her skills in horsemanship, swordsmanship, and the arts.

Jejuri’s Khandoba Temple

Jejuri Temple, also known as Lord Khandoba Temple, was constructed in 1608. It is quite a popular pilgrim sight, located 48 km from Pune and about 27 km before Mastani Lake.

The approach to the temple takes you along a winding street through the base of the hill, followed by a climb of approximately 200 steps.

The temple is most renowned for its spectacular “bhandara” festival, a unique celebration that transforms the entire temple into a breathtaking golden landscape. During this event, the structure is completely covered in turmeric, creating a mesmerizing visual spectacle that seems to glow with an almost supernatural intensity. The vibrant yellow hue symbolizes not just color, but a deep spiritual significance—turmeric represents purity, auspiciousness, and divine protection in Hindu traditions.

The temple comes alive with an energy that is both festive and deeply reverential during Somvati Amavasya, a rare occurrence when the new moon falls on a Monday. Thousands of devotees gather to honor Khandoba, a fascinating deity that represents a warrior aspect of Lord Shiva.

Sangameshwar Temple, Saswad

The Sangameshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and dates back to the 12th-13th Century. Located at Saswad, it is 33 Km from Pune and right at the foothills of Fort Purandar.

The Sangameshwar Temple showcases the Hemadpanti style, characterized by intricately carved black stone that does not use mortar. It is situated at the confluence of the Karke & Chambli Rivers and is located close to another popular pilgrim temple of Sri Balaji Mandir, Narayanpur (also known as Sri Venkateswara temple), situated at Narayanpur near Kapurhol.

Purandar Fort & Rudreshwar Temple

Purandar Fort was a key strategic position during the Maratha era and is now under the Army’s command. It is also the birthplace of Chatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj.

The Rudreshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located within the fort complex. It dates to the 13th century and features exquisite stone carvings and also contains some unique sculptural elements not commonly found in other Maratha-era temples.

At the Purandar Fort, there is an old map of India carved out on the rock floor. It depicts India as it was thousands of years ago and includes our friendly neighbours Pakistan, too. One can also trek to Fort Vajragad, which is located nearby.

On your way up, stop and visit the Pokhar Caves. These are small but ancient rock-cut caves. To know more about these ancient caves visit a blog on Pokhar Caves by Kevin Standage

Saswad Fort

Believed to have been constructed during the late 17th or early 18th century, Saswad Fort is now known as Fort Jadhavgadh (turned into a resort). It played a significant role during the Maratha Empire’s expansion. While often overshadowed by more famous regional forts, it provides a more intimate and authentic historical experience for those willing to explore beyond the well-trodden paths.

Also visit the Aai Museum located in the fort premises.

Baneshwar Temple

Baneshwar Temple is an ancient shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located just 36 km from Pune in the small village of Nasarapur. This temple is part of a cave and is quite unique. This hidden gem rests much closer to Pune city, making it an accessible yet overlooked destination for travelers exploring the Saswad region.

The temple is located amidst a dense forest and enhances its beauty and connects it to Lord Shiva’s aspect as Baneshwar, Lord of the Forest. During the monsoon, you may also visit the beautiful Baneshwar Falls.

Constructed by Peshwa Nanasheb (son of Peshwa Bajirao I) in the year 1749, the Baneshwar Temple has also been declared a Wildlife Conserve & Bird Sanctuary.

Ambaji Purandare Wada

Those who like to explore history, must visit the Ambaji Purandare Wada located in Saswad. The fort-like residence was constructed in 1710 by Ambaji Purandare, a deewan of the Peshwas, Balaji Vishwanath and Bajirao I and is one of the oldest structures in Maharashtra.

The Purandare were an important clan in the Maratha land during the 17th and 18th Centuries. They migrated from the region of Karnataka to Maharashtra and were appointed as the administrators of Pune and Saswad. Later, Trimbak Bhaskar ruled the restored jaghir of Saswad until Ambajipant Purandare took over. After this, the Purandare family rose to prominence. Close association with Balaji Vishwanath
Bhat resulted in Purandare getting more power and wealth which enabled them to patronize art and architecture.

Learn more about this impressive Vada in a picture blog by Kevin Standage – Purandare Wada – Saswad

Off the beaten path additions

• The village of Shivapur houses the famous ‘levitating stone’ at the Dargah of Qamar Ali Darvesh (more than 700 years old), where a stone weighing 90 kg can easily be lifted when a specific number of people call out the saint’s name.

• Nighoj’s Potholes (Randhachya Khidkya): 20 km from Chincholi and 90 km from Pune, these geological marvels, some as deep as 20 feet, create a lunar-like landscape were carved into the riverbed by the action of the Kukadi River. These are Asia’s largest basalt stone structures.

Villagers refer to the place as ‘ Nighoj Malaganga kund’ and are best seen between October and February when water levels are lower and the formations are fully visible.

Some good-to-know information

Don’t miss the local specialty ‘zunka bhaka’ (spiced chickpea flour with millet bread) available at small eateries. Sample fresh dairy products like ‘taak’ (buttermilk) from local farms and try the regional variant of ‘misal pav’, spicier than its Pune counterpart but worth trying.

 Distance and location guide

Pune to Malhargad: 30 Kms via via Hadapsar – Saswad – Jejuri Rd/Pandharpur Rd.
Pune to Saswad: 32 km
Saswad to Narayanpur Balaji Temple: 17 Km
Pune to Jejuri Temple: 48 Km
Jejuri Temple to Mastani Lake: 27 Km
Mumbai to Jejuri Temple: 206 Km

Best Time to Visit: Monsoons & Winters